Mavrotragano is a dark-skinned variety grown exclusively on the volcanic Greek island of Santorini. Traditionally cultivated for the production of sweet red wines, it now has a somewhat cult status as a high-quality dry red.

Mavrotragano was almost uprooted to the point of extinction during Santorini’s tourist boom, when vineyard land was acquired by developers wanting to build hotels and apartments.

With its thick skins and small berries, the resulting wine is dense, deep in colour with immense, but soft, tannins. The palate is full bodied, with an array of spicy, stewed fruits, laced with minerals, earth and leather.

Like many vines on Santorini, most Mavrotragano remains planted as ungrafted vines – the loose volcanic soil of the island is inhospitable for the phylloxera mite. Excessive alcohol levels, however, can be a problem if growers are not careful. Winemakers continue to experiment with viticultural techniques to fully exploit the potential of the variety.

Mavrotragano matches deliciously with eggplant stuffed with mince (papoutsakia), spicy lamb meatballs in a tomato and cilantro sauce, braised wild mushrooms with woody herbs

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